Saturday, January 15, 2005


FIELD TRIP BRUNCH

A lovely clear day. The view from Zette's loft was great.

It took some doing to get people all in one place but until we have a presentation more formally, this will have to do. Actually, more fun. Elaine, Roberto sans Kathy, Steven showed up.


Plus the local Manipuri boys: Nick, Rajeshwar, Babloo, and a new guy, Deepak - a thorough gentleman. I feel it an essential part of my projects to get the Manipuri guys here involved and kept abreast. I want their thoughts, their enthusiasm. Most importantly, I want them to know where I am coming from as I go about reframing Manipur. Is this egoistic and delusional I wonder? But I can't think of anything that interests me more. I realize this is going to be a slow process but it sure helps to have smart guys to talk to.


Yoshiko whipped up a wonderful Japanese lunch. I saw her unedited footage of Manipur. Fascinating. Her take is always unconventional but it invariably leaves me with a new, richer point of view. I meet few people who do that to me.

I showed the baseball film. Big hit.


Yoshiko says she does not like that kind of structured filmmaking. I see her point. Not being an artist who need a safe, secure place for creative exploration, I can appreciate both approaches.


Mike comes late. Downtown is always a bit of a problem for her to get to.

Thursday, January 13, 2005

ZETTE: Yes, Motcha is such a good writer - we need to get him something better to read than Jackie Collins .  He was so serious at Thanksgiving, and looked so nice in his suit - he obviously paid close attention to everything we were saying; hope we said the right things.

BONNIE: Touching. and nicely written.  He was moved, obviously... we cannot even begin to understand OUR impact on THEM.  We need to think about this angle, and this angel.

Tuesday, January 11, 2005

A MARTIAL ARTIST REMEMBERS

By Heisnam Motcha

I was a stout young man of 23 when I joined Hula Sindamsang in 2001. Since then, I have been learning thang-ta, the Manipuri martial arts form, from Oja Devabratra. Many students joined and many have left but I am still continuing.

I was flummoxed when my Oja Devabratra told me that I had to accompany an American lady, who wanted to learn some movements of ‘thang-ta’. So two of my colleagues and I went to visit M.K. Binodini (or Emasi as she is known to is all) to discuss it. The contact had been made through her son Somi Roy who lives in New York. We were told that there were six Americans and they would arrive on November 18. The lady who wants to learn ‘thang-ta’ was Erin Mee. We were asked if any of us could accompany her every morning to our school, Hula Sindamsang. Somi was very conscious about the security of the persons who were arriving here. And I was chosen for the job. Then he asked me if I would be available on the evening of 18th as Somi wanted to introduce me to Erin. I agreed.


On 18th I was at Emasi’s at the appointed hour. There were some other people who were going to perform some traditional music for the visitors. While I was waiting, I met someone I knew - Sudersan, whose brother is a friend of my cousin.

Finally, the wait was over. The visitors arrived, one gentleman and four ladies. I was introduced to them. The youngest of them, whom I thought to be a little over twenty-eight - my age -, was Erin Mee. I guessed she must be around 5 feet 9 inches tall as she was about my own height. She wore glasses. She was blonde and very fair complexioned. Her other companions too had the same complexion. This was the first time I had come into close contact with Westerners. I had known Americans only from movies and television so this encounter was different and real. I asked Erin about the duration of her stay and how she felt after reaching Imphal. From the very first meeting Erin, like all the others, seemed very friendly.

Erin's "boriba", a ceremony of initiation at the beginning of learning an art form, was then fixed for the evening of the 20th. This was to be done with a prayer offering to the God Pakhangba, a compulsory ritual for every martial arts student.

Around 2 o'clock on the afternoon of the 20th, I reached at Somi’s place. Erin was getting various articles ready for the ceremony. She was wearing a black T-shirt, black slacks and slippers. Sudersan was also ready with a video camera as, I was beginning to see, he was always going to be documenting. We three went together to Hula Sindamsang. As soon as we reached, Oja Khelchandra arrived. Oja is the honorific term we use to call our masters. Oja Khelchandra is an eminent scholar and the president of our institute and Oja Devabratra was its principal.

As a rule, the head of the school always conducts the "boriba" ceremony, and so it was with Erin’s "boriba" as well. On a raised citadel in front of an idol of Pakhangba, there were some swords, sticks, and charcoal burners. Two spears and two long sticks formed crosses on either side of the citadel. There were two shields in front. The offerings for the "boriba" included a bunch of bananas, some oranges and a few gifts for the Oja.

A small area in front of the citadel was wiped clean. I put Erin’s gifts there. Then I lit three candles and three incense sticks. After I was finished making the arrangement, Oja Khelchandra recited a hymn to evoke the Inner Spirit to guide us in the process of learning. Erin and I knelt down. I was there beside her so as to help her follow the rules of the ritual.

To purify us, we were sprinkled with holy water with the aid of a sprig of leaves from the Tairel, a tree we hold sacred. After the prayer was over, Oja Khelchandra sat on a "mora", a stool of woven cane, and Erin kowtowed to him, presenting her gifts that included a white shawl and a pen. Oja blessed her, stroking her head.

Then Oja Khelchandra showed her a movement using a "cheibee", a leather-covered stick in the form of a sword. This particular movement, using the wrists, is the basic form of thang-ta. It is difficult for everyone. But to my surprise, Erin could repeat the performance in just a few seconds. It was not just I, but also others who were present, who was surprised at her skilful maneuvering of the sticks. Her performance gave me the impression that she was not only attentive but also had the aptitude for learning this oriental martial art form. If she continued learning, I felt she would surpass the students who had joined the institute even before she did. This particular impression will be an everlasting one to me as long as I live.

After Oja Khelchandra had left, Erin continued to practice for a while. Then we went inside the house to meet Oja Devabratra, as he had been bed-ridden for more than a month. From their conversation I learnt that Erin, being a theater personality, thought she would incorporate thang-ta properly in her work by learning it herself.

It was almost dark when we left Hula Sindamsang. I told Emasi and Somi about Erin’s performance. They were delighted to hear the news. I told Erin that I would come pick her up at 6:15 a.m. the next day and left.


But I kept thinking about what had happened that day; the way Erin had performed. I just couldn't get over the fact that a lady from a far-off place had just executed an art form supposedly reserved for men only. Of course we do have girl students too. Our institute had produced many female students and we currently had only one left, a girl named is Chitralekha. She had received a scholarship from the Government of India. But Erin’s case was different. Her habits and her way of life were totally different from ours, and yet, she could do it.

The class at Hula starts at 6:30 in the morning. So at 6:15 I reached Emasi’s place where Erin was staying with Zette Emmons, an American colleague of hers.. She was already ready. I rode my bicycle and Erin rode pillion. At the institute she continued with the lesson from the day before as she needed to perfect it. We also taught her some warm-up exercises developed in our institute. This was a unique form of exercise practiced by no other institution. At first she had some difficulty but later she seemed to cope well enough. At Hula we have a percept that anyone, boy or girl, who comes to learn this art form must comply with our method of teaching. We want every student to achieve perfection in this art. If someone is neglectful or just cannot stick to our rules, he just distances himself from the scene. This, I think, Erin recognized well, as she stated in her television interview later.


When we talked about our personal lives she spoke about her four-year- old daughter, her mother and her theater work. It was apparent that these things were a core part of her life. I also told her about my parents: about how my father became engaged in theater and how my mother also worked in theater. We also talked about the 9/11 tragedy in which the World Trade Center collapsed. I had seen that on television but hearing about it from the mouth of a New Yorker was very touching.

It was clear Erin was very much dedicated to her work and that she had left her child and mother to come to a distant land that most of her people had not heard about. This had an important impact to us all, especially about their women. I had gotten first-hand information about the freedom women have in her country. I had learned something about the freedom of women or feminism from novels by Sidney Sheldon and Jackie Collins. To this I had added information from television, magazines and movies.

One day our American friends gave a dinner party at Emasi’s residence. I was invited too. They called it Thanksgiving Dinner. They informed us that Thanksgiving is a major festival in the U.S., and that it was based on a story involving American Indians. They also said that it was a national holiday in U.S that people from all different walks of life celebrate, regardless of caste or creed. They said they no longer have holidays based on religion. Their practice stayed in my mind and I thought that if our government were to follow this too, communalism could be abolished from our society.

Our American friends offered us cranberry sauce and apple juice that they brought all the way from the U.S. Their attitudes gave me a sudden liking for all Americans. They made turkey for us, Western style, something I think nobody here had ever tasted before, though they may have known of it. While we ate, Erin conveyed her desire to send some more students from her school to learn thang-ta and drama in Manipur. I liked the idea too but then she said she didn't think she could get by Somi's security restrictions. She said Somi wouldn't even let her go alone to answer a call of nature!

I think she had good reason to think so because we simply cannot provide security and assist people for as long as a month. But we thought perhaps there might be some other arrangement that might satisfy both sides.

It was now getting a little late and I left early because I had to come back in the morning again.

On the last day at Hula, Erin wore our traditional attire for thang-ta. It consists of a "khudei", a loin cloth; a shirt-resembling the modern T-shirt; wrist guards called "khudang yai"; and shin-guards that we call "khubom yai". The color of attire was mainly black. Together we showed a performance to the spectators that included Oja Devabratra, Emasi, Zette, Somi and some others. Erin impressed everybody as she could follow the movements easily.

It was time for her to say goodbye to Hula. Oja Devabratra gave Erin four cane sticks as a token of memory and so that she could continue practising after she returned to the U.S. She kowtowed to Oja when she received the sticks.

It was November 27; a Saturday morning. Erin was busy packing. I went up to her and gave a shawl and a pen-stand as a gift. I also received a present in return. A friend of mine had brought some people from the local cable TV network to interview her. In that interview, she thanked all the people who helped her during the trip. She gave her warmest regards to all the Ojas of Hula Sindamsang and the students as well who gave her so much cooperation. She also expressed her desire to come back again.

Then came the time to say goodbye. We exchanged addresses and emails. My heart felt so heavy that I could not hide the feelings. I could not hide my eyes from the others present there. I rushed away from the crowd to hide my tear-soaked eyes. The memory of those days, with our American friends in this remote corner of the world will stay with me forever.

Wednesday, December 15, 2004

SOMI TO ZETTE: FedEx will pick up the package this afternoon. They say it will be delivered Friday. I will mail you the Airway Bill and Tracking numbers.... It is coming as an unsolicited gift as advised by the FedEx person.... It will have a lock on a latch. The key will come in an envelope with the FedEx guy. I will bring the spare key with me.

The box will weigh 17kg and will contain:

1 Potloi [bride's wedding dress]

1 raw silk bride's blouse

1 gauzy Innaphee Bride's wrap

1 Bride's tiara

3 imitation jewelry necklaces

4 imitation jewelry bracelets

1 Groom's cotton pheijom (dhoti like, with purple printed pattern)

1 Groom's cotton pumyat with fake buttons (kurta)

1 Groom's cotton shawl

1 Groom's turban

2 white presentation cotton innaphees

2 fuschia cotton wraps

10 paper Bride dolls

5 mini braziers made of recycled cans


Do I see you Sunday at 2 for Yoshiko"s. Shall that be our get-together if she is not too tired? I leave tomorrow for Bangkok and will have dinner with Manuel.

Tuesday, December 14, 2004

ZETTE: Yes, send [the wedding dress] etc to Valrae - I can hardly wait to see it.  Is the jewelry going to be in there too, or will you bring the small bits with you? 

It really is Christmas in overdrive here,  and the weather is about to turn cold, so get ready!  It's been mild since we all got back, but that's about to end.  I ran into Jacob without Yoshiko at a Hanukkah party on Friday!  It was funny to hear his version of how Yoshiko described the trip.  He did know about her interest in the guards.   Please have a safe trip - it was not so bad coming back packed into coach class, as long as you have a neck pillow, sleep mask, and are sitting on the aisle.  Much better than I thought it would be. 

Monday, December 13, 2004

BONNIE: I am sending regards to all the Manipur Field Trippers from New York City.  Please stop by to see the new show by Yoshiko and friends at Asia Society, information below. I hope you are all getting back to normal.  My jet lag is insufferable! 

Game/Play

Conceived and directed by choreographer Yoshiko Chuma, Game/Play is a madcap, cross-cultural performance which explores the world of games through dance, music and words. Dozens of games are packed into the performance - from children's clapping games to jump rope to rhyming word games, to gambling - which is at times provocative, at times contemplative, but always playful. The stage includes 4 seven-by-seven foot cube frames, which rotate and change position evoking dice, a chessboard floor and video projections. The piece is performed by 12 dancers and musicians from China, India, Indonesia, Japan, Korea, and Myanmar (Burma) including a Japanese children's song singer, Balinese and Korean child dancers and a classical Burmese dancer. It can be enjoyed by children and adults alike.

Wednesday, December 08, 2004

MIKE'S NOTE TO A FRIEND: When I unpacked my treasured T-shirt I found it reads "Manipur Baseball" not "Manipuri Baseball" (which I think is what I told you.) It also has a small round logo on the back shoulder which reads Manipur Amateur Baseball Association (and something in Manipuri) in a circle; and inside the circle there is a silhouette of a baseball hitter and an image of the lion/dragon which symbolizes Manipur. I forget what it's called, but I can find out these things from Somi if you like.  Anyhow, it's a great T-shirt (black on grey) and I've asked Somi to try to bring some more when he comes back to New York in a couple of weeks. This is because I've found people here fascinated by this whole story and I've decided to form a Board of Directors for the project and I want them to have the T-shirts.  These will be people from baseball itself (players and others), writers, influential people who love the game.

For Americans, baseball is such a joyous game.  We love the look of it, the dual emphasis on the individual and on the team, the fact that it has no time constraints (theoretically a game could go on forever), its beauty, its history. I think the Manipuri players feel much of the same thing.  They really love the game and they want to see it flourish in Manipur. So do I.  It's a graceful game that somehow seems right even in such a remote and different culture.  But it can have its place in a land of grace, of subtle dance traditions and delicate music and glamorous polo.  An enchanting juxtaposition.

Tuesday, December 07, 2004

ERIN: Have been asked by Leila's school to do a little presentation on
Manipur for 4-5 year olds. Trying to figure out what to do. Have them dance to
Dave's music, maybe show them a video of one of Rase's dances. Maybe a
thang-ta exercise. Any ideas?

Am also about to write Theatre Journal and ask if they want a performance
review of Rose of Lidice.... That's my news for now...

Monday, December 06, 2004

ERIN: And I really want to send you a report on the Women's Market -- because for me it wasn't as much about shopping as about a visit to a place where women are powerful in the real sense of the word, a place that is a political center, a place where women really cooperate rather than compete with each other, a place where Bonnie and I (on our first visit with Ranjana) were joyously welcomed (both in phanek so that had something to do with it) and the women were so pleased -- it was like a social visit. None of that pull to buyt this, look at that.

When we went later in the week with Teja, he took us all around and then took us to meet his aunt. So we made a personal visit at the Women's Market -- which seemed perfect -- the idea that you go to the market to visit a friend, to gossip, to talk about pollitics, to do whatever. In other words, it is a social center. Who are the govt officials trying to move them inside to a structure? I'm sure they ahve good impulses (in the rainy season it can't be easy to sit out there all day) but it will ocmpletely change the tone of the place.

So, in other words, when you write about the Women's Market I would love to see you write about it as a social and political center, a meeting place, and a place where women have control, where women call the shots, where women treat themselves and each other with respect, and how Bonnie and I felt drawn into that. It's much more than a place to shop. Oh, did I mention I think it's probably also a cultural center in many ways? But that's just a guess -- the first observations areclear to me just from experiencing the place.
ERIN: Just for the record we did see some of the [Maha Ras] rehearsal. Not endless amounts, and we did get
stuck doing all the puja stuff, but enough to see how rehearsal works and is structured, and the range of dance abilities, and the range of reasons for doing it -- which are so evident in the body language. It's really clear that some of the women love to dance, some of them are there for the social life of it, and some are clearly forced to be there by their families.

And some of them love to use their bodies, and some of them wish they could get through life without bodies at all.

ERIN: Thanks for the reassurance about Lokendra Arambam. I just want to make sure we don't behave caually with respect to people'e time.

Can't wait to see the Lidice video -- I'm still planning to run away from home and join the sumang lila. As for WTC, although I think your video is great, it didn't do justice to the live performance -- video rarely does. And I know that I liked the video but was absolutely BLOWN AWAY (oops -- maybe that's not the right choice of words) by the WTC show when it was live. I think it's one of the best things I've seen, bar none, in recent years.

And I wasn't joking when I told the performers and Dr. Nara that I think i'ts a really important piece of work. (By the way, think Dr. Nara is doing amazing things with this sumang lila troupe -- using these plays as a way to spread peace. That's a very savvy use of performance, and his scripts are quite savvy too.)
ERIN: Does Dr. Nara have the scripts for Lidice and WTC? I know they improvise as well, but some scnes are tightly
scripted. Also: at some point would love to have him articulate his vision for these plays, why he does them, his role as producer, etc. Maybe via an email exchange?
ERIN: Just read through your blog, which is absolutely fantastic. Really loved reading it. Need to fill you in on trips to the Women's Market, however, which is, as you know, an absolutely amazing place, I don't want to articualte it right now, becuase my head is not in the right place, and I won't do it justice, but will soon.

Sunday, December 05, 2004

ZETTE: I have been labeling photos since I got up this morning - no end in sight, I was just sending you an email when I got your blog - I willfill in the museum visit that Bonnie and I made - I also have the complete list of attendees. The photos of groups will be precious to those who werethere. Lots of good ones, many duds of course too, but they may be of historical interest.

We will make Sibley squirm with shame when he sees the Thanksgiving documentation, ha ha ha...

It's hard to talk about the trip here, people are so busy and cluelesss, butit's what I expected. I want to call you tonight, about 7:30 a.m. yourtime, and ask about potloi updates. I still want some dolls too, samples. I will try to figure out how to email you some photos without the files being too large. I'm going swimming, and then back here to the computer again for the rest of the day. weather is nice, but coldish. I can hardlywait until Bonnie and Yoshiko are back.

Love to Imasi, tell her I saw the original of her portrait at the NGMA, andeveryone knows her there - Rajeev L. the director was impressed.

Thursday, December 02, 2004

SOMI: I am still savoring the aftertaste of your visit. I truly enjoyed it so much. It was a most amazing experience for me after, what, these two years of planning?

I have met and talked to most of the folks you met - some drop by, missing you - and you have made such an impression, and gave so much in a way Manipur has really never seen before. You have all made some real friends. I am sure only good things can come of this and i am dying to sit down with all of you and shoot the breeze.

For now, I have done my final schedule which i will send on to Ralph, insert into the website etc. Soplease take a look and see if i have gotten anything wrong, missed out on anything? I must have for there are like 75 listed. As you will see, i want to give the range of all your interaction,s both as a group and individually.

Wednesday, December 01, 2004

MIKE:

It was an extraordinary visit, full of magic and beauty and revelation.
You did an amazing job of pulling so much together, and must be
exhausted but hopefully happy.

I'm sure you want our opinions, so let me summarize what I most loved
as well as some pitfalls to look out for in the future.

The best, as they come to mind:

Your mother, her still center. We can all learn so much from her.

Dave, who is a remarkable young man, sensitive, responsible,
intelligent. I know all of us in his house felt he made a huge contribution to
our visit.

Just about everybody we met for their unstinting generosity and
kindness. I'm happy that they are your Manipur. Of course, particularly the
incredible kindness of the Thoudam family.

The first evening at your house. The delicacy and power of the music.
I was transported. I'd gone to a new world.

The dance rehearsal. Grace, subtlety, control.

Manipuri polo. The glamour of the hills. The thrill and joy.

The field. of dreams, which I thought perfect for our needs. How
wonderful that you found such a perfect place. We must now make it happen.

The baseball games, tears in my eyes, I was so happy.

Ras Lila, the unbelievable spectacle, the mournful delicate sound of
Radha's voice. I wish I could have stayed to the end for the union,
but I was building a fever which actually lasted into Calcutta where I
slept 13 hours and began a recovery (sadly couldn't make it to
Prit's performance).

There were hundreds of other wonderful experiences, but those I've
listed affected me most personally.


On the pitfall side:

Overprogramming. I know you want to show us everything wonderful, but
some prioritization must happen, some selection. We had insufficient
time to digest what we experienced, and most of us were exhausted,which
is why so many fell ill.

Proper preparation for the weather. I know I suffered particularly
from the cold because I didn’t get you last emails, but in any case
people must be aware of the temperature shifts and the conditions (that is,
that so much is done outside at night).

I think that's all for now, except to say I hope some concrete good
will come of all this. I have developed great admiration and affection
for the Manipuri people.

Tuesday, November 30, 2004

ERIN: I will continue sending you thoughts as they rise to the surface. Not only because they might be interesting to you, but becuase it will keep me in touch with Manipur.

I realized, as I wrote an email to Kanhailal (which I copied you on) that in "real India" I am often treated, as a foreigner, with either too much respect and deference, or with too much unfounded contempt. In other words, I'm very rarely treated as an individual, but usually as an AMERICAN.

I didn't find that to be true in Manipur. Or maybe it's just not true among the people you introduced us to. But I never felt that people were being obsequieous. Nor did I feel that they were dismissing me automatically. In
other words, there is a cultural self-confidence in Manipur that allows the people I met to treat me in a real way. That's another palpable aspect of the trip that I've only just begun to be able to articulate.

By the way, Leila loves her phanek. She has ben wearing it around the house non-stop and announcing that she's on her way to a wedding.

I just read the note Arambam included with the pack of Cds he gave me: the note says that he was expecting me to come ot his house, so we may have screwed up. If we did, will you appologize to him -- I don't want him to think I stood him up.

And: I also thought it would make an interesting article to talk about the connection between Kanhailal's Darupadi, a one-woman show about women in Manipur that was scheuled to premiere last July and was postponed because of thedemonstration of the naked women in front of Kangla, and the demonstration itself. However, to do that I would need footage of the women's demonstration, and of Daupadi, and I would need a co-writer who saw the events live. What do you think?

Last, there are still a few things I managed to not bring back with me, that I'd love to have if there is room in your suitcase and time for you to pick them up:

Lengshonnei video
Draupadi video
video of women's protest in front of Kangla
Premchand's ANTIGONE
videos of World Trade Center and Rose of Lidice
book on Manipuri language by Khelchandra
there's a novel that Lancha was suggesting I read, but I don't know the
title (he said it's in English).
Rase's email address
tape of China Rose if possible.

I've been listening to Dave's tape -- it often sounds like Hong Kong rock to me. Interesting. Again, often bears absoleutely no resemblance to Mainland music. By the way: another perception of Manipur: Leila doesn't recognize
Dave's music as Indian. I am fascinated by this, becuase it proves the musical differences. So when I put on Dave's tape, she loves it, but she insists it isn't Indian. When she wants to hear Indian music she insists on Hindi film
songs. I haven't been able to convince her that Dave's tape is also from Inida. But obviously she is correct: in the sense that Manipur is not part of India. So: from the mouths of babes.
ERIN: Dear Kanhailal, Sabitri, and members of Kalakshetra,

I was so invigorated by our exchange of ideas and exercises, and had such fun working with all of you. It was the highlight of my trip to Manipur.

Sabitri, I was so moved by your performance: particularly by the lullabye you sang, and by the moment it turned into a mourning lament (reminding me of a terrible moment several years ago when I thought my own daughter
was dying). You are an extraordinarily powerful and evocative performer. I continue to be "haunted" (in the best sense) by your performance, and will never forget it.

Saturday, November 27, 2004

Evening: DANCE PRESENTATION FOR KOLKATA CHOREOGRAPHERS

Priti hosts Yoshiko and Bonnie’s meet with some choreographers in Kolkata. It is at her lovely run-down dance center. Very “Music Room”. A lot of dancers show up, including some famous reclusives like Mamata Shankar.

I will get details later on.